A confession – I have been a huge fan of designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s artistic creations for quite some time now and I have followed his work intermittently through internet. I am sure I am not the only admirer of this creator of exquisite style of clothing and now jewellery too. While his earlier work was eclectic and bohemian, he is now known as designer for brides and Bollywood – the latter being the fashion trendsetters in India.
Sometimes I do drool over his bridal lehangas – over-the-top and bling they may be and even if not really my style – the detailed handwork, the bright colours designed for probably the most important day in the life of any woman or girl. But what I love are his sarees – the Banarasis, his rare interpretation of Kerala kasavu on linen or maheshwari on khadi, occasional cotton and khadi sarees.
What prompted this blog is Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s latest collection An Endless Summer which had me gushing over the photographs on Instagram – launched just before Holi and before the long summer season fully descended. There is every possible colour under the sky which is featured – the fluorescent greens and yellows, pinks and purples, shades of red and even the monochrome finds a place in the collection. The subtle white/ivory and gold – a perennial favourite of summer season too plays its part in the collection.
The play of colours juxtaposed with traditional cheent, vibrant geometric or florals designs hand-printed or hand-painted or even embroidered couture created a visual delight. Focus on season appropriate material – khadi, linen, kota, mulmul is the charm of this collection with the long-forgotten organza making a comeback – interspersed with matka silk. The very handicrafts for which India was famous for before Britishers took over the country.
Of course, the collection is focussed on modern fashion-conscious women who like to experiment and not bound by traditional look – the interpretation of Shikhargah sarees of Banaras as printed organza sarees especially caught my eye.
The vibrant colours of this summer collection are a sheer poetry in fashion, work of art that can be worn! And I continue to drool over …
A version of this article appeared in the India Currents Magazine on May 29, 2018